One of the most tricky components of bra making is, deciding which lingerie fabrics to go for – Stretch or non-stretch? Those old remnants of lace that your grandma gave you – should you use them? What about a woven fabric on the Bias? Here are some basic rules that will help you when buying.
Lace: An easy fabric choice for a bra is lace. It is offered in 2 types – all over lace and galloon.
All Over Lace:
All over lace, is available very commonly in most specialty stores selling lingerie fabric or online bra supplies Toronto. It is usually offered in 36″, 45″ or 60″ wide quite like any other fabric. One example in the fabric is a Swiss stretch all over lace in mauve. Allover lace has two varieties – stretch and non-stretch. Veteran bra designers prefer using all over lace mostly for the Noelle bralette, Barrett bralette, and Noelle panty.
Another variety of lace is galloon, and all galloon implies that the edge of the fabric is finished with a decorative edge. Galloon lace is not so easy to find– you’ll perhaps be purchasing, for the most part online; also it tends to be extremely hard knowing which one to get.
There are some components to look for when surfing the net – width and fiber content. Have you before done online shopping for bra materials and fabrics, only to receive half of its size, of what you thought it would have been? The same can happen with galloon lace. Means, you should buy galloon lace that is in any event 6″ wide. Anything narrower and you run the risk that the pattern pieces, won’t fit on the lace, except if you’re sewing sassy lingerie or g-string. If so, 2″, 3″, or 4″ will work. You can piece lace together, however that is a big hassle.
Lycra is one other option for bra making, however normally as a combo fabric (for example on the back band of a bra or center front/back) or panties. The bra designers like to blend lycra with lace, so it would seem like lingerie and not a sports bra. A couple of other amazing things about lycra is, that you can use it for swimwear and activewear and it’s easily available at most bra kits stores online.
There are 4 types of linings that are mostly used for bra making – standard stretch mesh, power net, sheer cup lining, and 15 denier tricot. For the major part of lingerie sewing, the bra designing experts use stretch mesh or power net. Stretch mesh is used for panties, X’s size bralettes, and small to medium cup sizes.
Powernet is used for Large to Triple X bralettes and D+ cup sizes. Mesh comes in various weights, so check for GSM (grams per square meter), when shopping online. The stretch mesh mostly used is 100 GSM and power net is 230 GSM
Keep all these rules in mind and you should end up with the right lingerie fabric.